Part Two
After the river incident, Kim and I explored the tropical jungles then we thumbed down a collectivo (bus) going back up the mountain and zig-zagged our way back up to Quito. All eyes on board stared at us since we were the only gringos. I looked around to see that many Andean cholos were carrying their piglets to market. It was odd to have a pig snort so near my ears but I smiled at an Indian woman next to me who embraced her pig guardedly. I said, “I ain't gonna mess with your stinky pig lady! Give me a break!” Kim laughed and laughed! We finally arrived back to town and visited museums and some of South America's oldest churches.
During our stay in Quito, Arthur and I met one of Ecuador's favorite painters Umberto Moreno who offered to rent us one of his large estate's bedrooms for about $20.00 a month. It had a Spanish flavor and a gorgeous view of the mountains. Every morning he would bring us a breakfast tray of homemade bread, fresh fruit juice (mango, pineapple, or orange), and the most wonderful Columbian coffee. (I still think back to those times when I drink a good cup of coffee.) He wanted to find out more about America through our conversations and brightened up when we discussed his Dali-esque paintings. Arthur turned him on to an enlightening substance that encouraged more creativity. Sr. Moreno then thanked us for the experience. After about six weeks, before I left his home, he gave me a heart-shaped diamond ring for my mom. Even in her eighties, she still wears it today!
One afternoon, Arthur, and I met with Mike Buzzo and a friend of his whose name was Chileno. He invited us to his parents' house near Mount Cotopaxi so we took a one and a half hour taxi ride to a road lined with palm trees. When we got to the house, two beautiful afghan hounds greeted us at the car. We went through two huge front doors into a large Spanish style mansion. In the back of the livingroom, there was a panorama of huge windows. (Chileno's father was an elected Chilean official who was gone on business that day so we had the house to ourselves.) We played guitars, and were having a good time when Chileno asked us to go swimming and provided shorts for the occasion. We dove into the livingroom pool then came back up outside with a spectacular view of Cotopaxi in front of us. Wow! Later, the four of us, explored the estate area and went fly fishing for mountain trout on the slopes of Cotopaxi. This is still one of the most marvelous houses I have ever seen!
Later, back in Quito, Arthur and I rented horses from the local stables as when we were younger. We rode for several hours then arrived at our old school, Cotopaxi Academy where we were greeted by some of the students. The teachers would not let them ride but the old school day memories flooded back.
There was an 11:00 p.m. curfew in Quito for Americans but my brother Arthur and I were out partying in the street in front of a friend's house. About 1:30 a.m., a cop car blasted its siren then interrogated all of us. None of us had a car so Arthur had the balls to ask the cops to take us to Strawberry Fields in the lowlands and bribed them with beer and cigarettes. They happily took the bait and drove a few of us to our destination. They called out, “Good luck!” then drove off.
To be continued...
Part Three
I met Kim's brother Mike who was an explorer like myself. We took a several days' trip along the coast but Kim couldn't go along since the coast can be full of shady characters. Back then a person could hitch-hike without any problem so Mike and I thumbed our way all the way to Esmeraldas and to the wonderful beaches of Atacames. One of our rides was on the back of a banana truck. We sat on top of green bananas watching as the misty cloud forest turned into lush jungle. We occasionally had to wait our turn as the narrow road could only take one vehicle at a time to go around the mountainous corners. Also, landslides were frequent and many have died or fell over the side. As the truck slowly edged its way around we both leaned way over the rim to peer down at several thousand feet. It was scary but so cool!
We stopped in Santo Domingo to eat and to catch some sights at a market. As we walked to the sounds of music, we marveled at all the hand made cages of exotic animals and birds from the jungles. We played with a tame kinkajou (also called a honey bear), which have a prehensile tail that can wrap around your arm and hang. Many people have them as pets in Ecuador. There were also sloths, ocelots, tapirs, anteaters, varieties of monkeys, small mammals, parrots, and other birds.
As we sat in the square eating our lunch we gazed at all the passersby. A family of Colorado Indians walked by in their interesting regalia. The man was painted with a striped pattern and had huge discs in his earlobes. His hair was made a brilliant red by a native fruit and styled by combing it forward. He was draped with a loose tie-dyed cloth sheet and had a handmade quiver of bow and arrows. The woman was also striped with discs in her earlobes but was naked on top. The children wore no clothing. The interesting family carried small cages of birds. Finally, since absorbing so much of the novel smells, sights, and sounds we finally had enough of smoky air and huddles of people around us. It was time to move on and proceed with our journey to the coast.
Mike and I flagged down another ride then finally arrived in Esmeraldas. We were desperate to get to the beaches of Atacames so we hurriedly flagged another ride and got out of town. The beach was beautiful with white sand and several huts that cooked for the hungry traveler. We explored the region, surfed the waves (so much fun!), ate fresh fish and rice with fried banana, and drank pulque (an alcoholic beverage). We stayed intoxicated for several days. Since we were near the Galapagos, I spent hours watching the interesting marine life and reading Kon-Tiki.
One morning I woke up and decided to take a dip in the Pacific Ocean even though I was afraid of dangers that prevail in these waters. I was horrified when little crabs nibbled on my toes but was mesmerized by the waves, tiger sharks, and giant manta rays swimming about. I peered down into the depths to a magnificent coral reef. As I swam with the current and took in all these wonderful things, I didn't realize that I was being pulled out to sea by the infamous Humboldt current that runs along Peru and snakes out toward the Galapagos. I am not a good swimmer and didn't have a life vest so I began to panic. I turned onto my back and power stroked my way along all the while praying to God to help me. He was in my mind the whole half hour it took me to swim to shore. I eventually found my opening in the riptide and once my feet touched sand I cried. I thanked God and couldn't believe what had just happened. I could have been lost forever, since no one knew I had gone for a swim.
My friend went into the city so I stayed alone for a time. I remember cracking a couple of coconuts and reading about Thor Heyerdahl who actually came to Guayaquil (an Ecuadorian city) to get his main sail post from the jungles of Ecuador. As I read Kon-Tiki I imagined I was on that exploration. As dusk arrived, I purchased a plate of fish and rice and sat looking at a slight glow on the ocean. As it got darker the phosphorescence in the water became brighter then soon the ocean was lit up from one side to the other. I sat in the water delighting on the way it looked through my fingertips. Wow!
Soon, Mike came back and I didn't feel so alone. We went back to Quito but I didn't see much of my brother at that time because he was doing his own thing. For another couple of weeks, I took Kim to her prom and had a good time with my new friends. I will always treasure those magical few months in Ecuador.
When I finally flew back home, I sat by singer/songwriter Harold Melvin (of Harold Melvin and the Blue Notes) and shared South American experiences. Upon my arrival at the Miami airport, I was totally broke and had no way to afford a trip home to Houston. At the ticket counter, I used a phone to call my dad for a way home but he and everybody else was at work so I openly cried like a man without hope. I was alone and afraid! A friendly angel saw my sorrow and bought me a plane ticket and $10.00 extra to eat on. (I paid back every cent later.) The next day, I arrived in Houston just in time to see the Rolling Stones with Stevie Wonder on the Exile on Mainstreet tour. Ike and Tina opened the show and tore up the stage. Wow! What a homecoming that was!
After I came back to Texas, Arthur stayed two more years in Ecuador and Peru. He got to see more of South America than I did but once you have been to Ecuador all other places fail in comparsion to what I experienced elsewhere. I hope to go back soon with my wife and form new memories as an older and wiser man. I thank God for my life and adventures in the Andes.
Keep the faith!
Cal